The doublet, which had a family provenance to the direct descendants of Mutte de l’Espinette family, came up in a dedicated costume and textiles sale held at Drouot by Thierry de Maigret (20% buyer’s premium) on June 1.
It is a luxurious creation, made from padded natural chamois leather which is quilted overall and embroidered in blue silk and applied with gold braid with scrolls and fleur de lys. Beneath the now fragmentary cream satin lining are several layers of padding using linen and straw. Six overlapping padded panels are set around the waist.
The doublet retains its buttons, some functional and some decorative, and is done up by cord threaded through eyelets. The catalogue described the condition of the doublet as “exceptional, given its age”.
A similar example can be found in Museo Moncenigo in Venice, while the Met in New York and the Museo Stibbert in Florence have doublets of the same period.
Offered for sale with an estimate of €15,000-30,000, the bidding easily outstripped that level to reach a hammer price of €45,000 (£39,475).
At that point the Musée des Art Decoratifs in Paris stepped in to pre-empt the piece for its collections.