Instead, they found different outlets for their money, such as buying beautiful clothes. It was this new market that stimulated the growth of textile arts in the Edo period.
The kimono developed into an expression of personal display, with fashion contests between the wives of the wealthiest merchants who vied with each other to show off ever more dazzling displays of exquisite costume.
After the Second World War, the kimono was viewed as a product of Japan’s feudal past, but today they are seen as a highly individual vintage choice, particularly when worn as a lavish coat.
More than 100 kimonos and coats can be found on Shani Turner’s website and on Instagram. The dealer has been buying these for 10 years, mostly sourced from the US and now costing from £350-1200. Turner stands at Portobello Market on Fridays, the monthly PA Vintage Fashion Fair at Hammersmith Town Hall and at Frock Me at Chelsea Town Hall, held five times in 2017.
Turner will not be at the upcoming Frock Me on Sunday, September 3, but she will be exhibiting at October’s fair on Sunday, October 15.