This Egyptian revival gold, enamel and gem-set collar necklace established a new record for the jewellery of Marie Zimmermann when it sold at $42,500 at Rago in New Jersey.

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In very good condition save the loss of one emerald, it sold at $42,500.

Although this necklace came with a Zimmermann silk pouch dated 1921, a matching bracelet, pictured in The Jewelry and Metalwork of Marie Zimmermann, was made c.1937 for Walter Rosen (proprietor of the Caramoor Center for Music and the Arts in Katonah, New York), one of Zimmermann’s most important patrons.

This would place it towards the end of her career: Zimmermann, an heiress to a straw-importing fortune who did not need to work for a living, ran her metalwork studio at the National Arts Club in New York from c.1910-39.

Only in the last two decades have top museums paid much attention to Zimmermann. The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York has quite recently acquired a handful of works, including two pieces at Rago: a 1920s tourmaline engagement ring with a lotus and acanthus setting ($18,000 in 2006) and a jewelled box (a record $100,000 in 2006).