The Edwardian Arts & Crafts-style moonstone and enamel-set necklace, bracelet and pendant shown above was offered at Lyon & Turnbull (25/20% buyer’s premium) in Edinburgh as part of an October 23 sale titled Decorative Arts: Design since 1860.
It comes in a box embossed Mrs Newman, Goldsmith and Court Jeweller, 10 Savile Row, London.
Charlotte Newman (1840-1927), or Mrs Philip Newman, as she is more generally known, was a pupil and later assistant of the Victorian revivalist jeweller John Brogden.
She exhibited ‘archaeological’ and neo-Renaissance style jewels with him in Paris in 1867 and in 1878, when Brogden was awarded the Legion d’Honneur and Newman received the unique distinction of being given a médaille d’honeur as a collaborator for her exceptional enamel and gold work.
After Brogden’s death in 1884, she set up under her own name, becoming the first woman to be admitted to the Jewellers Guild in London. The hammer price for this suite came at the lower end of a £4000-6000 estimate.
Brooches that are plane to see
Also pictured here are two scarce First World War silver and enamel ‘sweetheart’ brooches. Stamped W.W. LD, Sterling, these versions of The Allies Aeroplane (registered number 644982) are enamelled with the flags of the allied countries, Great Britain, France, Belgium, Japan and Russia.
Originally sold in small blue card boxes with a monoplane pictorial to the cover, this pair was estimated to bring £300-500 at Roseberys’ (25/20/12% buyer’s premium) Design: Decorative Arts 1860 to the Present Day sale on November 4. The winning bid was £750.