Although housed in a Bulgari box and purchased by ‘a private lady of noble title’ from the Italian firm in Rome in the 1950s, it has a maker’s mark for Köchert of Vienna. When contacted by Adam’s specialist Claire Laurence Mestrallet, the firm (now into its seventh generation) had been excited to see the piece and then find the original working drawing with all diamond carat weights in the archive.
The design was by the Viennese painter Erwin Lang who was working for Köchert at the time c.1929.
The piece had been sold as a bracelet with the additional element for conversion into a tiara added later by another workshop.
Such is the quality of the work (it is near identical) Mestrallet speculates it may have been done by Bulgari itself prior to the sale in the 1950s.